Feta Cheese

Bulgarians know it simply as "White Cheese". The Feta cheese known in the rest of the world originated in the Balkan countries; it’s a myth that it is made only made in Greece. The word does not exist in classical Greek; although cheeses are mentioned frequently in the writings of the ancient Greeks, it is never clear what kind of cheese they are talking about. The description of cheesemaking in Homer's Odyssey (Book 9: 278-79) sounds more like the Sicilian cheeses known as tuma or canestrato than it does a brined cheese like feta. It is a New Greek word, originally tyripheta, or "cheese slice," the word feta coming from the Italian word fette, meaning a slice of food. A suavely pungent and creamy sheep's milk cheese, Bulgarian white cheese differs profoundly from the more briny Greek Feta.

This white cheese was traditionally made in the mountains of early Macedonia, Ionia and Thrace, an area now lying within the borders of Bulgaria, and has been made in the same way for thousands of years. Sheep milk is most preferred for the making of white cheese; it is sweeter and creamier. Since the method of making this cheese is also closely associated with the source of milk, it was originally manufactured by shepherds. The problem of ensuring that the cheese had an extended life was solved by conserving it in a brine solution. Salted water acts as a veritable fountain of youth for cheese by halting the process of ripening to keep the cheese "young." The traditional Bulgarian white cheese has a smooth, cuttable texture without excessive crumbliness, and is matured in a brine solution. This provides the cheese with a slightly salty, though not unpleasant, flavor. The fresh texture and tang comes from the special culture each cheesemaker uses. The taste is sharp, yet mellow, without being acid. The colour of this traditional Bulgarian cheese is of incomparable whiteness. White cheese made from sheep's milk is used on the table and white cheese made from cow's milk is used in cooking.

Cheese took a serious hit in the early '90s. Cheese, it was "discovered", is composed mostly of fat; it's "bad" for you. So less fattening cheeses like "feta" became all the rage. Because it is soaked in brine, feta is known as the "pickled cheese." This pickled taste provides a perfect contrast to sweet summer fruits like mangos, apricots and watermelon. Feta adds extra zip when crumbled onto fresh vegetables, chicken, seafood and salads. While some use feta to enhance entrees, the Bulgarian people also know that it makes a great table cheese, paired with olives, crusty bread and cured meats such as ham and salami. Or they complement its tart, salty flavor with light red and sweet white wines, tomato juice and citrus drinks. Spiced up, this appealing cheese fills a sauteed fresh roasted sweet red pepper or is found in savory pepper bjurek (breaded and fried pepper). And, most important is its appearance topping chopped cucumbers, sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes in the refreshing sopska salad that accompanies each meal.

Popular feta cheese now hails from many Mediterranean and Eastern European countries as well as the U.S. where one variety is made with cow's milk. It is wonderful crumbled on salads and can also be used in cooking. Actually, it’s not bad on crackers either. Feta develops quite a strong flavor and if you like "hearty" cheeses, you must give it a try.